Mulegé is a veritable oasis on the only river course of the Baja California.
The town is divided into two parts: the inland centre and a port at the mouth of the river Santa Rosalia. Thousands of date palms and various fruit trees, but also vegetables of all kinds grow on the fertile soils of its banks. One has a wonderful view over the landscapes of the oases either from the elevated mission church Santa Rosalia de Mulegé or the former prison.
While the Mission Church is less interesting than others on the peninsula, the prison, whose building now serves as a museum, has an interesting history. It was considered to be a prison without bars, where prisoners were allowed to leave the building during the day to do their work and return only in the evening. In Mexico, Mulegé is allowed to adorn himself with the nickname “heroica”. This heroic status goes back to the American-Mexican war, when Mexican soldiers and residents of Mulegé, repulsed the US invaders on October 2, 1847 under the command of Manuel Pinedas.
The small town of Mulegé consists only of a few streets that are quickly explored. There are shops, some pubs and small restaurants, post office, internet café and a gas station, but no bank. One of the most pleasant places is the courtyard-restaurant of the small hotel Las Casitas, under whose lush bougainvilleas you can enjoy a cold beer or a banana-mango-margarita. Las Casitas was once the home of the famous Mexican poet Alan Gorosave. Other restaurants in town are El Candil or Los Equipales, while opinions about the Hotel Serenidad restaurant are divided. (The Saturday pig roast has been celebrated here for decades with Mariachi music).
The Bahía de Concepción begins a few kilometres south of Mulegé and its beaches are the destination of a growing number of tourists. Many North American pensioners stay here during the winter months as permanent campers. Among the most popular of these beaches are (from north to south): Punta Arena (approx. 17km) has a mixture of sandy sections and gravel. No shade. Playa Santispac (18.5 km) is already visible from the main road, often very full, dark sand, no shade, small restaurant. Los Cocos joins Santispac, but is more secluded, good for swimming, but often mosquitoes due to the nearby mangroves. The access road to El Burro beach is in a sharp bend. Good for swimming, but many permanent campers, small restaurant at the north end. El Coyote has some palm trees, the pretty little bay is good for swimming. Provisional toilets, no service facilities. El Requesón is the southernmost of the recommendable beaches (about 50km south of Mulegé). A sandbank rises into the bay here.